Buying Pearls
tricks and traps
Buying Pearls - Tricks and Traps
If you don't know a lot about pearls (and most people don't, including your average high street jeweller) this page will help you avoid some of common pitfalls.
Pearl Guide
a brief history of pearls
how pearls are formed
pearl qualities and grades
pearl shapes and colours
pearl sizes and comparisons
choosing and caring for pearls
buying pearls - tricks and traps
a brief history of pearls how pearls are formed pearl qualities and grades pearl shapes and colours pearl sizes and comparisons choosing and caring for pearls buying pearls - tricks and trapsVariations of the Grading System
Although there is no universal standard for grading pearls most reputable sellers adopt the A, AA, AAA system. Tahitian pearls may be graded using the A to AAA system or an A to D system.
Unfortunately even this unofficial standard can be abused if a seller uses a grade like AAA to describe pearls which do not meet the generally accepted quality criteria for that grade.
Sometimes, definitions not in the grading system like AAAA or AAA+ imply the pearls are superior. When you see this, discount one A or the plus sign when comparing products.
The term 'gem quality' is a legitimate description for pearls without fault. Such pearls are more likely to be used in earrings, pendants and rings than in necklaces or bracelets.
Although there is no universal standard for grading pearls most reputable sellers adopt the A, AA, AAA system. Tahitian pearls may be graded using the A to AAA system or an A to D system.
Unfortunately even this unofficial standard can be abused if a seller uses a grade like AAA to describe pearls which do not meet the generally accepted quality criteria for that grade.
Sometimes, definitions not in the grading system like AAAA or AAA+ imply the pearls are superior. When you see this, discount one A or the plus sign when comparing products.
The term 'gem quality' is a legitimate description for pearls without fault. Such pearls are more likely to be used in earrings, pendants and rings than in necklaces or bracelets.
Misleading Terminology
Investment Grade: Pearls are a wonderful natural gem but they are not an investment and will not appreciate in value.
Japanese Akoya Pearls: This description has been abandoned by most pearl professionals. Japan is the world's largest importer of Chinese Akoya pearls where they are processed and re-exported. A 'Japanese Akoya Pearl Necklace' will almost certainly contain a high proportion of Chinese Akoya pearls.
Whether a pearl originated from the coastal waters of China or Japan is in any case irrelevant. A pearl is judged by it's size, shape, lustre, surface quality and colour - not it's birthplace.
Tip: If someone tries to obtain a premium price for 'japanese pearls' don't ask where the pearls come from. Ask where they were farmed. The term 'origin' is also used to confuse.
Investment Grade: Pearls are a wonderful natural gem but they are not an investment and will not appreciate in value.
Japanese Akoya Pearls: This description has been abandoned by most pearl professionals. Japan is the world's largest importer of Chinese Akoya pearls where they are processed and re-exported. A 'Japanese Akoya Pearl Necklace' will almost certainly contain a high proportion of Chinese Akoya pearls.
Whether a pearl originated from the coastal waters of China or Japan is in any case irrelevant. A pearl is judged by it's size, shape, lustre, surface quality and colour - not it's birthplace.
Tip: If someone tries to obtain a premium price for 'japanese pearls' don't ask where the pearls come from. Ask where they were farmed. The term 'origin' is also used to confuse.
The Blue Tag Scheme
The Japanese Pearl Exporters Association Inspection Tag (the blue tag) is sometimes used to denote quality.
The JPEA is a voluntary organisation which examines pearls from any country and passes or fails them on the basis that they meet a minimum market standard.
A blue tag doesn't mean the pearls were cultured in Japan, are top grade, or any better than pearls without a tag.
Think of it in the same way as a car MOT. A certificate says only that the vehicle passes a minimum roadworthiness standard. It doesn't mean it's a good car or that it won't break down next week.
The Japanese Pearl Exporters Association Inspection Tag (the blue tag) is sometimes used to denote quality.
The JPEA is a voluntary organisation which examines pearls from any country and passes or fails them on the basis that they meet a minimum market standard.
A blue tag doesn't mean the pearls were cultured in Japan, are top grade, or any better than pearls without a tag.
Think of it in the same way as a car MOT. A certificate says only that the vehicle passes a minimum roadworthiness standard. It doesn't mean it's a good car or that it won't break down next week.
Imitation Pearls
Go by many names. Simulated, organic, faux and semi-cultured are sometimes used.
Good imitations are made from beads of glass, ceramic or shell and coated with a varnish of laquer and ground fish scales to mimic the pearl surface.
Well made imitations can be quite hard to spot. One way is the 'tooth test'. Gently rub the pearl under the cutting edge of your top front teeth. Don't bite it.
A real pearl should feel slightly gritty due to it's crystaline structure. An imitation pearl will feel smooth. This is not an infallible test.
Save 80% !!!
"Retail price £1350. Our price £275."
Unless you normally buy your jewellery in Knightsbridge you are not going to save 80% or more by shopping for pearls on-line.
From a specialist internet pearl retailer look to pay about half the price of an equivalent pearl product in a department store or high street jeweller.
Go by many names. Simulated, organic, faux and semi-cultured are sometimes used.
Good imitations are made from beads of glass, ceramic or shell and coated with a varnish of laquer and ground fish scales to mimic the pearl surface.
Well made imitations can be quite hard to spot. One way is the 'tooth test'. Gently rub the pearl under the cutting edge of your top front teeth. Don't bite it.
A real pearl should feel slightly gritty due to it's crystaline structure. An imitation pearl will feel smooth. This is not an infallible test.
Save 80% !!!
"Retail price £1350. Our price £275."
Unless you normally buy your jewellery in Knightsbridge you are not going to save 80% or more by shopping for pearls on-line.
From a specialist internet pearl retailer look to pay about half the price of an equivalent pearl product in a department store or high street jeweller.
Black Pearls
Black pearls are rarely jet black but blue, green, grey, aubergine, peacock and more. Green is the predominant colour.
Naturally coloured black pearls come from the pearl farms of French Polynesia (Tahitian pearls) as well as Indonesia and the Phillipines.
Except for freaks, there are no natural black freshwater or Akoya pearls though these may be dyed or irradiated to simulate black pearls. This isn't a problem - it doesn't harm the pearls - unless they are passed off as natural or Tahitian.
Genuine Tahitian pearls are subject to stringent quality control inspections by the Tahitian government. Some pearls may by-pass this scrutiny so it's sensible to buy from a trusted source.
Black pearls are rarely jet black but blue, green, grey, aubergine, peacock and more. Green is the predominant colour.
Naturally coloured black pearls come from the pearl farms of French Polynesia (Tahitian pearls) as well as Indonesia and the Phillipines.
Except for freaks, there are no natural black freshwater or Akoya pearls though these may be dyed or irradiated to simulate black pearls. This isn't a problem - it doesn't harm the pearls - unless they are passed off as natural or Tahitian.
Genuine Tahitian pearls are subject to stringent quality control inspections by the Tahitian government. Some pearls may by-pass this scrutiny so it's sensible to buy from a trusted source.
Buying from Abroad
Many of the pearl sellers you find on the first page of Google and other search engines are based in the USA or China. Just because a seller has a web name like pearlsite.co.uk doesn't mean it has more than an accomodation address here, if that.
Comparing Prices
Does the price include import taxes ? If not, you will have to pay the courier an extra 25-30% in vat, duty and handling charges. Beware suppliers who would send purchases marked as a 'gift'. Customs take a dim view.
Returns
If you are unhappy with your purchase how will you return it ? One-off courier charges are expensive and insurance is minimal. You can - in theory - reclaim vat and duty on returned goods but the procedure is cumbersome.
Consumer Protection
"Traders should state on their web site which country's laws apply. Your rights will depend on the law of that country."
Many of the pearl sellers you find on the first page of Google and other search engines are based in the USA or China. Just because a seller has a web name like pearlsite.co.uk doesn't mean it has more than an accomodation address here, if that.
Comparing PricesDoes the price include import taxes ? If not, you will have to pay the courier an extra 25-30% in vat, duty and handling charges. Beware suppliers who would send purchases marked as a 'gift'. Customs take a dim view.
Returns
If you are unhappy with your purchase how will you return it ? One-off courier charges are expensive and insurance is minimal. You can - in theory - reclaim vat and duty on returned goods but the procedure is cumbersome.
Consumer Protection
"Traders should state on their web site which country's laws apply. Your rights will depend on the law of that country."
Nacre Thickness
Think of a white marble covered with a single coat of clear nail varnish. It'll look good when new - round, shiny and flawless. After a few months or so there'll be chips in the varnish and soon whole areas will flake or peel off. That's pretty much what can happen when the nacre covering a bead nucleated pearl is too thin.
Thin nacre is a potential cause of disappointment when buying seawater pearls (it's not usually a problem with Tahitian or South Sea pearls and freshwater pearls are solid nacre). Commercial pressure may force pearl farmers to harvest pearls early, with nacre less than 0.2mm.
It's difficult to spot thin nacre on delivery. There can be a clue around the drill holes. If these are inspected with the aid of a magnifying glass and the nacre is already cracked or peeling away, it's not a good sign.
Think of a white marble covered with a single coat of clear nail varnish. It'll look good when new - round, shiny and flawless. After a few months or so there'll be chips in the varnish and soon whole areas will flake or peel off. That's pretty much what can happen when the nacre covering a bead nucleated pearl is too thin.
Thin nacre is a potential cause of disappointment when buying seawater pearls (it's not usually a problem with Tahitian or South Sea pearls and freshwater pearls are solid nacre). Commercial pressure may force pearl farmers to harvest pearls early, with nacre less than 0.2mm. It's difficult to spot thin nacre on delivery. There can be a clue around the drill holes. If these are inspected with the aid of a magnifying glass and the nacre is already cracked or peeling away, it's not a good sign.
The Pearl Market Limited, Drefach Felindre, Llandysul, Carmarthenshire SA44 5YW United Kingdom Tel: 01559 371177
The Pearl Market™ is a Trademark of The Pearl Market Limited © 2002-2012
Business Awards Winner 
Governed by UK law 
British Jewellers' Association 
Federation Member
The Pearl Market™ is a Trademark of The Pearl Market Limited © 2002-2012
Business Awards Winner Governed by UK law British Jewellers' Association Federation Member